The racing hobby certainly isn’t cheap by any stretch of the imagination, and everyone has a budget, but selecting the proper suspension components the first time may end up saving you a few dollars down the road when you have to buy it a second or third time. And to do so we turned to one of the experts in the field.ĭave Zimmerman, the man behind Team Z Motorsports in Taylor, Michigan, is without question one of the most knowledgeable and experienced individuals in the racing suspension business – especially when it comes to our beloved Mustangs – and so when we set out to provide our Late Show-like Top 10 list, there was simply no one better for the job.įrom the home office in Taylor, Michigan, here ladies and gentleman is tonight’s Top 10 list. Many misconceptions, outdated thought processes, and pure oversights exist regarding the preparation of a stock suspension Mustang, and to rectify that, we’ve compiled a list of suspension pointers and tuning techniques to cater to everyone from the beginner to the seven-second showmen. Because much like a full-on race suspension, several elements exist in stock and stock-style suspension systems that can make or break the performance of a car, regardless of whether it’s producing 300 or 3,000 horsepower.įor those of you out there with ten second and quicker Mustangs or those with such cars on the drawing board, suffice it to say, you’d like to get the most out of your investment, and cutting corners or overlooking things in the suspension department isn’t going to get you there. TALLER & WIDER is clearly the move, maybe I'll give the new NT-05 R's a shot, they're cheap enough.As a whole movement of doorslammer racers have proven over the last handful of years, a world of potential exists in a stock suspension-equipped vehicle when not only planned out and constructed accordingly, but fine tuned with an astute attention to detail. I know it'll get better in the heat (I go through this every year ) but I also know there is no way in hell I can race on them so I am going to have two sets of rear rims and tires and the new tires need to be better than what I currently have. I guess to their defense the L's do have insane low end tq but I've roasted these on the Cobra on 50 degree days and it's still like driving on ice. Tim, I've had 555R's on 3 Lightnings and I'm sorry but they were just useless to me, even in the heat of the summer and even after smoking the shit out of them. I would almost try the new Nitto NT-05 R but I've had such terrible luck with 555R's in the past on numerous Lightning's and now the Cobra that I'm afraid it would be another useless set of tires, although they look pretty cool. I dont think I can get way with 30" tall tires so I'm thinking 27-1/2" - 28" Tall is where I should go and that should be a HUGE DIFFERENCE compared to what I currently have. On my 9 sec L I used 30 x 13-1/2 tires on the street but this Cobra has a MUCH HIGHER Power To Weight Ratio and is 10 times worse for traction. I clearly have enough power to go an 1-1/2" taller and a 1-1/2" wider, my current tires are 26.41 x 12.01 If you dont have any side wall they cant do what they suppose to do and wont hook worth a shit. Usually I would go to a smaller wheel taller tires but since I dont have that choice I at least want to go taller so I dont end up with a low profile slick with no give. The 315's are a full inch shorter than what I currently have and the 335's are a half inch shorter. The problem is I ruled them out because they only have offer 315/30/18 & 335/30/18 and both are to short They would be 1.1 " Taller and 1.57" Wider than what I have now. So do you think in my case I could fit 345/35/18 ? (when the snow melts I'll get under and measure) So that tells me I can go another 1-1/2" wider and remove the spacer providing I have enough room on the inside, which I think I do. So they used 1" billet aluminum spacers behind the rear rims (for flush offset). I have a 8.8 SRA Rear (3.73 Gears, Eaton Posi, Moser 31 Spline Axles) that's 3/4" shorter on each side than the orig irc was. I know the 18" would be as good so going taller is a must for them to hook and of course wider. I've had luck with 15" Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials before and will most likely go with them in 18" when I save a few more bucks. I currently have Brand New 305/35/18 Nitto NT555R's but they suck monkey ass for traction so I'll probably sell them while they're new with my current 18x10 Chrome Saleens or just keep them as my winter tires & rims. So I have another set of 18x10 Chrome Saleens on the way and I want to get some REAL Drag Radials for the rear (which have to double as Track Tires should I decide to have some fun on the 1320). Unfortunately due to the fact that my Cobra has 6 piston front and 4 piston rear calipers with 13" & 12" rotors I'm basically stuck with 18" rims.
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